THE HAIR EXTENSION GRADING SYSTEM EXPLAINED
THE HAIR EXTENSION GRADING SYSTEM EXPLAINED
Cuticles
What is a cuticle, and how does it play a role in hair extensions? Each hair fiber is made up of three layers. The innermost layer is called the medulla, and it is composed of loosely packed cells at the center of a single strand. The middle part of your hair fiber that surrounds the medulla is called the cortex, which comprises keratin proteins and structural lipids. The cortex makes up most of the hair strand mass and is surrounded by the cuticle layer, which protects the overall structure of each strand. The hair cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair shaft, it acts as a protective barrier for the hair strand and gives it a lot of shine. The cuticle is made up of layers that look like shingles. You can take one strand of your hair and slide your finger down your hair shaft. It will feel really smooth. To feel the cuticle, you will need to slide your fingers up your hair strands to feel the shingles that compose the cuticle.
So why is the cuticle so important when dealing with hair extensions? If the hair strands are not going in the same direction, the hair will not be happy, and you will not be satisfied because it will tangle up all the time. When creating hair extensions, the hair needs to be going in the same direction.
The Hair Extension Industry
Truthfully, the hair extension industry is still largely unregulated and does not have a legitimate grading system. Since 2010, Hair extension manufacturers have struggled to set themselves apart from their competitors regarding how to grade and sell more of their hair extension products to consumers.
So, these manufacturers came up with the so-called hair grading system that uses a combination of numbers ranging from 4 to 12 and the letters, usually “A” or “AA and “AAA.” All this is an attempt to prove that their hair is better quality than the other hair extension manufacturers.
As a licensed hairstylist and certified hair replacement specialist, I have a unique perspective about hair extensions as I have personally worn and installed just about every type of hair extensions. The number one piece of advice I give people seeking to purchase new hair extensions or wigs is to take the hair extensions and run your fingers through it. If you feel any type of resistance then you may have a valid reason to be concerned. Next, gently take the hair bundle and slide it behind your neck. It should feel great, not itchy.
Hair Extension Types
Different degrees or types of hair are used when manufacturing hair extensions, wigs, hairpieces, and toppers. Lets go over some of the common types of hair you’ll find.
100% Virgin Hair (Raw)
Raw virgin hair is sourced from donors who did not use chemicals on their hair. The hair is usually thick and in excellent condition; it is the most expensive hair you can buy and it has the highest quality. It is human hair with all the cuticles going in the same direction which hasn’t gone through any chemical or mechanical processing. Some manufacturers will steam treat the hair to create a different texture. If the hair is straight, it is still raw virgin hair.
Remy or Remi Hair
This hair is sourced from two or more donors. Remy’s hair is also 100% human hair. All the cuticles go in the same direction to prevent tangles and matting, but unlike Virgin Hair it has been chemically or mechanically processed. Regardless, it is still high-quality hair that will last you for a long time.
100% Human Hair/ Non-Remy
Some hair manufacturers choose not to take care the hair and keep the cuticles in alignment. Although the human hair has not been mixed with synthetic hair, non-remy hair has been stripped of its cuticles in an acid bath.
The hair manufacturers must add silicone to keep the hair looking shiny and smooth. The only problem is the silicone eventually shampoos out after just two to four washes, and then it’s a tangled, matted mess!! It will not last s long as 100% Raw virgin or Remy’s hair.
Synthetic Hair
Although manufactures have made great strides in creating synthetic hair at the end of the day, its just not real hair. You can not change the color or texture of synthetic hair.
Synthetic hair has no human hair whatsoever, and it’s completely synthetic and made of plastic. These type of products are not good in length longer than 12 in. and it will surely clump up behind your shoulders.
Forget about the synthetic hair, let’s talk about the highest quality hair extensions. Keep in mind that you can view and purchase all of these on our site, just click the links next to the names of each hair!
Vietnamese Hair Extensions
The Vietnamese hair extensions are just stunning. These gorgeous pieces are sourced from the countryside of Vietnam where the women do not use chemicals on their hair.
Profile of Vietnamese Hair.
Vietnamese hair is thick, probably the thickest hair we have ever sold. The texture is not silky smooth like the Brazilian. It is a perfect match for a woman who wears sew-ins and extensions, and if you are not into sew-ins, then a wig could be made from purchasing a closure, frontal, and bundles.
What you should know about Vietnamese hair:
- The hair is 100% Human Hair.
- Comes in double Stitch Wefts.
- Hair is “Remy” with cuticles facing the same direction.
- Vietnamese Hair can be colored all the way up to a #613 Pale blonde.
- Its double drawn and full to the tips.
- All bundles are a standard 100 grams.
Indian Hair Extensions
The wavy & curly Indian hair textures are some of the most sought-after hair in the beauty industry. The reason that Indian hair is in such high demand is that it is easy to manage. It bleaches well up to #613 and lasts a long time with proper care.
Profile of Indian hair.
Indian hair features the same benefits as Vietnamese hair (Double Stitch Wefts, Remy, double drawn etc.) but come in a different texture.
The popularity of Indian hair has stayed consistent over the past ten years and shows no sign of slowing down. Because it is less abundant to find, the prices for actual raw Indian hair that has been donated at temples will generally be higher.
A quick word about the following two hair categories, Brazilian, and Malaysian, they are both 100% human hair. But, the hair is actually not from those countries. It is processed and named that way to sell the products.
Profile of Brazilian hair
Brazilian Hair Extensions
These are the best-selling bundles here because they retain their value and are effortless to manage. You can simply wash them and go.
What you should know:
- Double Stitch Wefts, and Remy.
- Brazilian Hair can be bleached up to a #27 Honey Blonde.
- Single drawn but still not thin at the tips.
- All bundles are a standard 100 grams.
If you are looking for excellent quality hair extensions for the price, then our Brazilian Hair is it!
Malaysian Hair Extensions
Profile of Malaysian hair
The Malaysian body wave and Malaysian straight weave are a fantastic value for the price. The natural 1b color blends very well and is styled very easily.
What you should know:
- The hair is 100% Human Hair.
- Double Stitch Wefts.
- Hair is “Virgin Remy” with cuticles facing the same direction.
- Malaysian Hair can be colored up to a #27 honey blonde.
- Single drawn but still not thin at the tips.
- All bundles are a standard 100 grams.
See this link to learn more about the hair manufacturing process it is very interesting.
